LENR Reactor Live Test – 60 second film (Tom Conover)

The following post has been submitted by Tom Conover (aka Wizkid)

Video clip, current reactor design, running with live fuel cell – null results so far, Parkhomov replication run.


  • Charlie tapp

    Nice reactor looked like some individual hot spots inside about five of them mabee just needs that special jump start what did you do for your fuel anything special

    • wizkid

      Thank you Charlie. It probably needs higher temps to light. Here is the recipe this time…


      Use a Measuring Mixing Cup to perform the fuel mixing procedure.

      Fuel Mixture
      .665 Ni
      .165 Li7
      .165 LAH

      Mixing part one: Mix one part each by volume, Ni, Li7, LAH. Mix. (This becomes the (NiLi7LAH) mixture)
      Mixing part two: Mix one part each by volume, (Ni), and the (NiLi7LAH) the mixture. (This becomes the “FUEL”)

      Yield:% by volume equals .665% Ni, .165% Li7,.165% LAH total = 99.5%
      The missing .5% is imaginary.

      The ss tube is made from 304 Stainless Steel Tubing, Welded, ASTM 269, from zoro.com

      Lithium-7Li fluoride, 99.994 atom % 7Li, Certified, 5g .
      Source ebay. Vendor: chemsaversinc1

      Nickel Powder (Ni) 100Mesh 99.9% Purity, 50g.
      Source ebay. Vendor: dwsurman

      Lithium Aluminum Hydride, Reagent Grade 10Grams
      Source ebay. Vendor: dwsurman

      Reusable Graduated Plastic Measuring Mixing Cups

      Cut the tubing into equal sections of 1.5″
      Cut the end caps into equal sections of.25″
      Laser weld one cap onto each section of tubing.
      Use a 3/16″ID plastic tube to load the fuel mix into the tubing. (soda straw)
      Follow all safety instructions on the material handling public statements for the components.
      Laser weld the the end cap onto the tubes loaded with the fuel mix.

      • Ged

        Always happy to see new experiments; thank you for the detailed methods too!

        • wizkid

          You are very welcome. Wish I had positive results, but one day at a time.

      • Charlie tapp

        I was under the understanding that the ni and all the other are separated by a distance of some sort and not mixed together maybe I misunderstood e48. has anyone attempted a bifilar winding on their heater ? That would be something interesting to test or a ayrton-perry winding. Or like I have mentioned before a ground wire that is hooked to the fuel capsule so the induced voltage has a path to somewhere ? The ground wire was a very big deal in the beginning of Rossi lots of people brought it up a lot as some way of cheating but mabee it was just similar to a tesla coil and needed for the process. every old picture of his reactors have it. Just some thoughts good luck

        • wizkid

          Thank you for your interest.

      • Charlie tapp

        Oops did not see what Gerard had said about the ground I like his idea better would resemble a tesla coil more either way I still think the ground wire is needed

  • Andre Blum

    good luck, Tom.
    If nothing else, I think we can at least scratch off heavy breathing as an external stimulus that gets the excess heat started.

    • wizkid

      I keep my oxygen tank away from high temperatures.

  • Obvious

    Nice work!
    How many volts supply do you have?
    I have been using coils with as low as 11.5 ohm with 120V, with thicker wire, that last much better than small diameter wire. My current(!) favourite is 23 Ga Kanthal A1. It lasts a long time. With 240 V, I would go a bit higher in resistance with more wraps, and only drop to 24 Ga if I had to. Both are impossible to run to full potential with a standard dimmer, however.

    The number of wraps required to get good tube coverage certainly plays a role in selection, though. I prefer a little wider spacing and more current, to a high wrap density where I can manage it.

    But of course, do it any way you want. At least you are doing it. That beats talking about it any day.

    • wizkid

      Hi Obvious! I’m using 120 AC with SSR’s and a triac. I will consider your examples, they do sound like I could bump up to an easy 1200c with your reminders. My controllers are already scaled for up to 15 amps. Happy days. Perfect timing, you caught me just before a new set of heaters were scheduled to spool. Cheers

      • Obvious

        I am using a SSVR, which is a triac and VR all in one. Of course to get the noisy triac action at higher current, 240V is needed. (And more caution when dialling up power).

        • wizkid

          How FUN! I am going to buy one today. I use my Arduino computers to manage the 14 hour or longer runs, but this SSVR would make a perfect tuner to tweak my power before the Arduino kicks in to preset power level input between the outlet and my project. “This one’s too big, this one’s too little, and this one’s just right.”

          Your handle explains the gifts in your comments.

          Thank you!

        • wizkid

          Thanks again Obvious, for the tips, I built a 24 Ga Kanthal (had it on hand) used 23 ohms and tripped it up to 1200c without batting an eye. Thinking I can complete at least one or two more live tests this week. Hope to pass it forward if my tests light up. Cheers!

          • Obvious

            Excellent. Once a stable test design is achieved, then the real experimenting can be done. Not much worse than a finicky design to add uncertainty to experiments, or fail at inopportune times. Beefier wires take a bit more power to get going, but are worth it in terms of overall reliability. I do suggest a modular heater design for repeatable testing also. Building a few interchangable heaters within close tolerance to each other will greatly increase confidence in results, and can be quickly swapped in if one does fail, without creating undue uncertainty from the swap.

            I hope the best for your success.

          • wizkid

            Thanks! I already built two more last night, (since they work sweet) for a set of three. They have to cure several days before use. Standard operating procedure for working components, including my Arduino controllers. I have two insulated safety chambers ready so I can run experiments real time in parallel. It makes me cringe when i think of Rossi working with “3 Quarks” in his R&D”. I would think he would have more than that for QC qualification, and it implies that he “stands alone” in the research.

            Are you a replicator, how is it you have first hand experience?

            I will start loading some stainless steel fuel cells tonight with hydrogen for LAH using the Wikipedia info “When heated LAH decomposes in a three-step reaction mechanism:
            3 LiAlH4 → Li3AlH6 + 2 Al + 3 H2
            2 Li3AlH6 → 6 LiH + 2 Al + 3 H2
            2 LiH + 2 Al → 2 LiAl + H2
            R1 is usually initiated by the melting of LAH in the temperature range 150–170 °C,[15][16][17] immediately followed by decomposition into solid Li3AlH6, although R1 is known to proceed below the melting point of LiAlH4 as well.[18] At about 200 °C, Li3AlH6 decomposes into LiH (R2)[12][14][17] and Al which subsequently convert into LiAl above 400 °C (R3).[14] Reaction R1 is effectively irreversible. R3 is reversible with an equilibrium pressure of about 0.25 bar at 500 °C. R1 and R2 can occur at room temperature with suitable catalysts.[19]

            but there are discussions about loading hydrogen going on in this forum about hydrogenation. I usually follow Parkhomov’s examples shown in his run charts. Talk hereabouts on the street is that I need to start at 100c instead of 150c – 170c, 200c for a while, then over 400c for a while. I allow 6 hours in these ranges to hydrogenate the nickel.

            and my understanding was that Ni & LAH should be mixed together, with whatever seasonings suit your recipe of the day. I have some alumina fuel cells ready to test too that I’m looking forward to using, that separate the Ni and the LAH using a .25″ spacer rod that allow .01” for the hydrogen gas to migrate out of the LAH chamber into the Ni chamber.

            I do this for fun and relaxation, but any thoughts on this stuff would be fun to discuss. Forgive me if I bore you, or if I fly to low to be worthy.


          • Obvious

            My experiments were intended to intentionally explore the null result space, so that I could readily recognize a positive reaction or common artifacts. I did quite of bit of work to design a solid heater design “on the cheap”, and pass on hints when I see someone going through stuff I did, that ultimately was an expensive or time-wasting route. I think we need a bunch of PHOSITAs out there that are familiar with the heater designs and what normal operation modes look like, and what some common problems look like.

            For example, I recommend that high watt lightbulb dimmers are a waste of time. The higher W they are rated, and “higher brand quality” the lower V max they make. The cheaper they are the better they output peak V, but are too weak to handle significant current. The SSVR was the cheapest, best solution I found, without using advanced controllers. The SSVR does have a low voltage turn on issue, but that is not really much of an issue, since it latches On well, and is easily overcome with external circuits.

            I did in addition a whole bunch of emissivity testing with the hot tubes.

          • wizkid

            Once again, you are kind to reply. I’m an accomplished software entrepreneur with a life long passion for alternative energy technology and science fiction who’s primary role today is “Grandpa” (retired). I imagine myself casting spells with software plus physics in my hobby, and bring success and passion as my favorite attributes to this arena.

            My 1225c coil just cured today for testing, Saturday I made another second short film for fun, this time with music:


            I believe in enjoying my work. Wake up everybody!

          • Obvious

            Very good! You can (very carefully) push the coils around a bit once they are glowing, to even them out, using a ceramic rod (and gloves). The coils always seem to relax a bit and misbehave the first couple of heat cycles, unless pinned down with ceramic goop. But the goop holding the coils seems to cause or increase the likelihood of early failure. This is why (I think) the MFMP use a loose cover, and I think the Lugano tube does as well have an air gap containing the coil. I have run both covered with an air gap, and wide open coils, after abandoning cemented coils. The open coils are much harder to get significantly above about 1050 C (depending on diameter) but last way longer than anything else I have tried.